Author: Hideo Mouri

There are three different styles of lamination.

“multi-layered,” “laminated,” and “Moori style”.

In this article, I’ll talk about why we arrived at “layering” in our tip development.

Of these, the term “Moori style” has since come to be used as “one of the formulas” beyond the tip.

Moori tip is the original “laminated tip”, but we weren’t actually the first to refer to the tip and say “laminated structure”.

The reason it became “Moori tip = stacked” is because that’s what American players called it when they saw Moori tip.

I’ve even heard that there was a time when it was popular to say, “That’s the Moori style,” when multiple materials were pasted together to create something that had previously been made from a single board or single material.

Thick tips = good tips.

It is an absolute requirement to make thicker tips with increased bulk

However, we didn’t plan to make the tip stacked from the very beginning when we started developing it.

I started developing the tip about 30 years ago, and when I looked for leather to use as a material, I was able to find a thin but good quality leather that I could purchase consistently.

However, at that time, the main materials used for the tip corners were ivory and killer whale teeth, which had “eyes” that could break if the tips were thin.

In those days, thick tips were considered to be good tips because “the thicker the tip, the less risk of breaking the leading edge of the tip”.

In other words, the absolute requirement for player acceptance was to increase the bulk and create a thicker tip.

It wasn’t acceptable to say “It’s thin but the quality is good”, and it was clear that a reworked version of a thin monoplane that players were unhappy with wouldn’t sell.

So I gave up on that leather and looked for another one.

However, when it comes to leather that is thick enough to be used as a veneer, there were some, but when it comes to something that can be purchased stably, I couldn’t find it anywhere no matter how much I looked for it.

That’s what it should be.

At that time, high-end tips were coming in from France about once a year, but there was a complete difference between the tips that came in the year before and the ones that came in this year, even from the same manufacturer.

The quality was dropping more and more, and the leather was visibly thinning.

There was no way that good quality, thick leather suitable for tips would be available on the market, when even the century-old French manufacturer was no longer able to source thick leather.

On the other hand, if you simply want to increase the bulk, there is the traditional method of using a “seat” (*1).

We attach a seat to the top of the leading corner to gain height.

But even the long-established French manufacturers are only able to make thin veneer tips, so they can make veneer tips using the limited amount of thin leather available in Japan, and then put a seat on it and say, “How would you like that? There is no way it can be accepted.

By the way, making tips has stopped being a hobby since I was thinking about these things.

I’ve come to feel that if we don’t put product value somewhere, we won’t be able to compete and we’ll end up with garage work.

‘If you can get the thin leather to hold together well

　It can be infinitely thicker.

Well, no matter how hard we try, we can’t consistently buy cattle hides that are more than 6 mm thick, which was the requirement for “good tips” at the time.

On the other hand, you can get thin but good quality leather.

But it doesn’t qualify as a good tip if it’s not thick.

A thought occurred to me after thinking about a difficult subject.

Why don’t you try sticking thin leather together? It can be made infinitely thicker if it can be upholstered well.

So, at first, I bought thin, high quality cowhide and pasted it together.

However, the skin of a cow is strong because of its thickness, and it is very weak when sliced thin.

So we were able to glue it together, but when we hit the ball, the fibers broke immediately and it broke with a crunch.

As it is written in the book of leather, the way the fibers of the leather intertwine is called the “three-dimensional weave structure” and the strength of the leather increases four or five times when the thickness is doubled.

On the other hand, if you cut the fibers in one piece, the strength of the product will be significantly reduced.

This is true for animals with strong, thick skins other than cows, such as elephants and bears.

So I thought, “Are there any animals that are originally thin-skinned and strong?

And then there it was.

That’s what pigs are.

Pigs have a lot of subcutaneous fat, and their skins have only about two millimeters of thick fat on the outside at best.

If you slice that 2 mm of skin to smooth it out, only 1 mm is left at most, but pig skin is originally thin and strong, so even if you smoothed out the surface, the fiber fragmentation was minimized and the strength was almost unchanged.

Therefore, we decided to use thin but very strong pigskin as the material for Moori tips.

If we can get quality at a higher level, I’m sure they’ll buy it at many times the current unit price.

By the way, in the old days, a box of 50 tips was the norm, and it was natural for the quality to vary.

Knowing this, players want to choose only good tips from a box and buy them, but from the seller’s point of view, it’s embarrassing if only good tips are taken away and only poor quality tips are left.

In those days, it was common to buy tips at the billiard hall and ask the clerk to install them.

So the billiard hall used to buy a box of tips and sell the tips according to “A-rank for the good players”, “B-rank for the average players”, and “C-rank for the lending cue”.

There were also people who bought one box individually, took only the A rank by themselves, and sold the rest to others.

However, not only was there unevenness in the contents of the box, there was also unevenness from box to box.

Therefore, if I bought a box with a lot of winners, I felt like I was getting something out of it, while if I bought a box with only B rank, I felt like I was buying something expensive.

That’s why many senior players, including professional players, were thinking this way.

If it’s good, I’ll buy it even if it’s expensive, so let me choose it.

I’ll give you 1,000 yen or 2,000 yen for a luxury item.

In other words, we didn’t have the idea of “I want good things to be sold cheaply.

Incidentally, the unit price of a tip at that time was about 100-300 yen at retail, and you could buy a fairly good tip for about 400 yen.

When I saw that situation, I thought, “That’s it.”

The idea was that people would pay many times the unit price of a tip to buy a box because they wanted a good tip, so we thought, “If we can make the quality at a higher level, people will buy it at many times the current unit price.

However, no matter how good and thick the leather you can get, you can’t stabilize the quality of your tips if you make them from a single piece of meat, such as a fillet or a sirloin.

In other words, a single plate of cattle is not good enough to achieve the same quality and to eliminate the errors.

So I thought, “This can only be stacked now.”

There are two reasons why Moori tip is laminated in this way.

Making it thick is one thing.

And one more thing is to stabilize the quality.

This is the raison d’être of lamination, and this is how the laminated tip “Moori tip” was born.

A part installed between the tip and the tip angle to protect the tip angle. It is made by compressing thin leather that is hardened with paper or leather.

Blue leather is “chrome tanning”.

The brown tips are “vegetable tannin-tanned

In this article, we would like to talk about the old fashioned “single leather tip” and “tanning”.

In the course of our research and development, we arrived at the answer to the question of “layering” in a sense of the word “layering” inevitably, as I told you last time.

However, that doesn’t mean that “tips have to be stacked”.

We believe that the single-board tip manufacturers have a great deal to do with the billiard industry, as they have been supplying tips to many billiard fans for a long time.

Blue tips, the so-called “blue type”, are often classified as “fiber” apart from “one piece of leather”.

But this is a mistake.

In fact, they are also made of one piece of leather, just like the brown tips, but different from them in the tanning process.

Blue leather is made of “chrome tanning”, which is the process of transforming the leather into something that will not melt or rot.

On the other hand, brown tips are often made of “vegetable tannin-tanned” leather.

Therefore, it is correct to call them “chrome” and “vegetable tannin” when distinguishing between them.

Incidentally, we use vegetable tannin-tanned leather.

Not only is it sturdy, but it’s

One of the characteristics of chrome tanning is that it is lightly finished

By the way, there is an interesting story about how humans learned how to tan skins.

Once upon a time, a cow fell into a manure pit and drowned to death.

But it was a hassle to pull the dead cows out, so we left them there.

After a long time, we pulled the cow up to use it after skinning and washing it, and found it was much stronger than the leather we used to make by rubbing wild hides.

In the search for the reason why leather is so durable, we discovered that raw hides were transformed into tanning hides by a chemical reaction between animal feces, plant food and grass juice.

It is the origin of vegetable tannin tanning.

In the Middle Ages, various tanning methods were developed and better leather was made in the Middle Ages.

Later, in the middle of the 19th century, a German scientist said, “Vegetable tannin-tanning is smelly, time-consuming and a little heavy. We started our research to see if we could make it possible to tan with more scientific chemicals.

The result was the invention of chrome tanning.

This is revolutionary, not only is it durable, but it is also light.

Besides, as you can see from the tips, vegetable tannin-tanning is hard to color because it turns dark brown, but chrome tanning turns light brown.

That’s why it’s so easy to stain, like the blue ones.

Because of these advantages, chrome tanning quickly overtook vegetable tannin-tanning and spread throughout the world.

Nowadays, probably more than 95% of the leather is made of chrome tanning.

It’s like a dry, alpha-wave.

There was a noiseless sound of a “squeal.

By the way, titanium is now used as a material for golf club wood heads, but in the past, of course, it was wood, and the most suitable material was persimmon.

However, we couldn’t just cut a lot of Persimmon wood, and sooner or later we couldn’t get a good material, so we made a plywood (laminated) head.

This was one of the hints we had in making our laminated tips, but what people who have used Persimmon all their lives lamented when they used plywood is the sound.

It used to make a good sound, but now that it’s plywood, it makes a “squeaky” sound.

The same thing can be said for tips, when you tighten a tip made of a good quality single board leather, like a meat fillet or sirloin, you get a nice alpha sound, a dry “squeal” sound without any noise.

However, it’s difficult to make that sound with a laminated tip because of the sound of the plastic (glue) inevitably getting mixed in.

Our original tips were a little noisy when you played them, and some people said they were annoying, but that’s also why.

As far as today’s tips are concerned, more research has led to fewer people saying they don’t like the sound, but this is still an issue.

The leather I was looking for when I was prototyping the tip was bullfighting bull hide.

If I could get a good veneer leather now, I’d be more confident than the good veneer tips I’ve had in the past.

The leather I was looking for when I was prototyping the tips was bullfighting leather.

When you weigh a ton, the skin is also very strong because it’s grown and muscular, especially when it comes to the waist area.

That would have been about 17 or 18 years ago now.

It’s exactly like “This! There was a time when we were sent two handfuls of exquisite leather called

So we quickly made a few hundred tips out of that leather, and they were as good as or better than the luxury products we had in the past.

All the professional players who have tried it can’t help but say it’s the best.

But as I mentioned last time, that leather was at a “can be” level and was no longer coming in.

In other words, we had the technology to make good quality tips, but we couldn’t make them even if we wanted to because we didn’t have the materials.

I think it’s very rare to find such leather in the future, and even more so when it’s in stable supply.

In that sense, the opportunity to enjoy the unique qualities of a single-plate tip has become very rare, and I regret that.

With the quality of the elasticity and density of the fibers.

In this article, I will talk about the relationship between “play”, “win rate”, “pressure” and “hardness” of the tip in billiards. I think tip’s words “hard” and “soft” often include stereotypes and preconceptions, not just hardness. It’s like, “A hard tip is harder to catch the ball,” or “A soft tip is harder to slip. For example, there are those that have no elasticity at all, like iron, and those that have a slight softness, like wood. Some are “soft,” others are airy and fluffy, while others are more like necha rice cakes.

Also, even with the same necha, there is a complete difference in the feel between a puffy softness and a moist softness. So I think it’s better to express the hardness of the tip by adding some sort of essence to it. It’s not just “I like hard (or soft) tips”, but “hard but bites with a squeak”, “soft but doesn’t lose its shape”, “hard but doesn’t make a metallic sound”, “soft but doesn’t crush”. As a tip maker, we don’t just set the hardness of the tip, we make it.

We take into account the quality of the elasticity and density of the fibers to create a good total balance. That’s why we’ve changed the wording of the tip type from “hard (H)” and “soft (S)” to “quick (Q)” and “slow (S)” response speeds – the time it takes for the tip to release after it catches the ball (there’s also a medium (M)). Hardware and software is something that many people can understand even if they don’t dare to say it. So I omitted that and added an element of response speed to the hardness and called it “a tip with a hard and quick (or soft and slow) character.

Just change the tip to something a little stiffer.

The story so far is not limited to tips, where you can draw very easily. On cue, for example, the stiffness of the shaft depends on the tip. Also, even if the cue or tip is stiff, just changing the way you hold it will make it feel different. Even with the same cue, if you grip it lightly, it will feel more and more stiff, and if you grip it tightly, it will feel a little milder. So I think it’s difficult to describe hardness and so on simply by using the words “hard” or “soft”, even if it’s a cue.

When choosing a cue that matches you, you should not only look at the design, but also think about your physique, stroke and playing style as a whole. For example, if you have weak arm strength and a small stroke, you may need to increase your cue speed to make up for the lack of power. Therefore, when choosing a cue, I think it’s a good idea to choose a cue with a tip or weight that is easy to increase the cue speed. In addition, professional players pay attention to the position of the center of gravity of the cue in great detail.

Therefore, knowing the performance of a cue used by a professional player of a similar build to your own can be an indicator of how to choose a cue. When you choose a cue based on not only its design but also its performance, you will be able to see what kind of hardness and characteristics of the tip should be installed on the cue. The reason we make three different types of tips is so that you can choose the one that suits you best at that stage. Unlike in the past, it’s easier to buy custom cues nowadays.

So, in the future, I’ll be able to tailor a cue to fit my needs, and then choose a tip to match. When we have that path, I think the relationship between the play and the tools will also be a more natural match. Why don’t you go a little deeper than your vague preference and think about what kind of equipment you need to improve your accuracy? It’s all about “picking the right tools” to make a good play.

Of course, to play well, you have to train as well. But the truth is that you can sometimes overcome a shot you’re not good at by just changing your tools. For example, if you say, “I can push the ball with a gusto, but the pull ball is blurry,” you’re often using a soft tip. Of course, even with a soft tip, if you cue well with a long stroke, you can pull cleanly (put some backspin on the ball and bring it back to the front). But if you change the tip to a slightly stiffer one, it becomes much easier to pull with just that.

Statistically, a slightly firmer tip.

The one who uses it has a better chance of winning.

It has something to do with match winning percentage and the hardness of the tip.

In terms of the Japanese three-cushion scene, statistically speaking, people who use slightly stiffer tips have a better chance of winning than those who use softer tips.

Also, globally, I don’t hear a lot of stories about players who are going to be champions using Fuka Fuka’s tip.

The reason for this is the table conditions.

Table conditions in the early stages of the tournament were dry and light, but in those conditions, the softer tips felt more secure.

This is where the ball slips away as soon as the shot is taken, and the softer tip is for a squeak-and-call motion.

However, the table conditions became wet and heavy as the tournament progressed.

When that happens, a soft tip can make the mistake of pulling the ball too far when it’s hinged.

It was extra when I was nervous and had a slightly weaker stroke.

In other words, the soft tips are pleasant to use in the first morning when the conditions are smooth, dry and light, but they require difficult maneuvers as you win.

On the other hand, the firmer tips will be better in the high points of the tournament, when the conditions are wet and heavy.

So statistically, people who are using slightly harder tips have a better chance of winning in tournaments.

Mouri himself used to be a young player who liked soft tips.

But as I’ve gained experience, I’ve started to tip thinner and slightly harder before the game.

I’ve found that tips that are too thick or too soft can make you anxious in a real match, especially in a tense situation.

So, although we know this by heart, there is an aspect of the tool that can affect the outcome to that extent.

By the slightest change in tools.

It makes a difference in your play.

Sometimes the hardness of the tip can help you overcome pressure.

If you are using a tip that is not suitable for you, you may be unknowingly making ball control more difficult.

Would it be better to say that they didn’t greet the ball with a transparent feeling?

The uncomfortable feeling of the tip can make you feel uncomfortable while playing, so you may be afraid of shots that you shouldn’t be afraid of.

A professional player can imagine from the feel of the tool how difficult it is to hit a shot with this cue, or how it might be to hit that kind of shot.

It takes years for amateurs to reach that level, but as I said, a small change in equipment can make a difference in your play.

Keep this in mind at all times, and when you watch an advanced player play, try to see not only the difference in the level of play and the amount of training, but also the difference in the equipment itself between you and that person.

I think it will change the way you look at tools, and most importantly, it will make billiards more interesting.

It’s not just hard.

The play tends to be bland when the hint is applied.

In this article, I would like to talk about the “selection of equipment” in billiards.

If we assume that the “bat” and “shaft” of the cue have three hardnesses, “hard”, “medium” and “soft” respectively, we can think of a total of nine different combinations.

There are two types of “hard bat + medium shaft” where the deflection of the wood does not occur in the hand, and “soft bat + hard shaft” where the hand deflects.

Apart from the first time you choose your own cue, I think the real way to choose a cue is not only to look at the design of the bat, but also to look for the one that suits you among these combinations.

In carom billiards, squishy and soft things are rarely used, whether it’s the bat or the shaft.

Compared to pocket billiards, carom billiards is a much heavier ball and requires a lot of hard shots.

Therefore, the cue needs to be hard and solid in terms of structure and material, and a combination of “hard bat and hard shaft” is often chosen.

However, if it is simply stiff, the play tends to be bland when the hinges are applied. Many carom billiards players wrap rubber around their grips to compensate for the blandness of their play.

It’s called a “snake bible.”

There was also a shaft that vibrated in two places, like a snake.

Pocket billiard cues, on the other hand, used to be soft.

It’s like catching a ball with the deflection of a cue and pushing it out with a pounce, like a pole vault.

There was also a shaft called the “Snake Vibrate” that vibrated in two places like a snake.

Back then, “rotation” was the mainstay of the game, which used 15 balls, so the racks were bigger than the nine balls.

What’s more, in the old days, we didn’t have break cues, we used play cues to make break shots.

So, in order to split the racks efficiently, it was also necessary to take advantage of the flexing of the cue.

In addition, Pocket Billiards has a smaller ball and a larger diameter cue tip than Carroll Billiards, so it didn’t have to be as rigid as the original Carroll Billiards cue.

These days, however, games other than nine-ball and ten-ball are rarely played anymore, and break cues are available.

As a result, softness as such performance is no longer required.

Unlike carom billiards, the nine-ball can be played with a crescendo point close to the center, a vertical change and a few crescents.

In fact, if you watch a Nine Ball game for an hour, you don’t see many hard shots.

In the Philippines and Taiwan, you may see a lot of shots with a lot of screeching and a lot of hinging, but most of the time, most of the players do not put a lot of strain on the cue.

That’s why most pocket billiard cues today are made with a combination of a medium-sized bat and a harder shaft, and many people may think that such cues are more reliable. In other words, the cue is designed to hit the cue accurately with a narrow cue.

A golf bunker shot is

No matter how hard you try, you’re not going to jump 200 yards.

Now that you know which bat and shaft combination is right for you, the next step is to talk about what hardness of tip to use.

I think “M” can be used for most of the medium cues that are not too hard or too soft.

But I don’t really recommend putting a soft tip on a hard cue for the purpose of neutralizing the hardness.

Of course, having a soft tip on a cue that is hard enough to “squeak” when it’s shot would be a relief.

However, as a tip maker, I recommend tips with a firmness of about M, which gives a firm feel even with a hard cue.

I think a harder tip, especially if you don’t have a lot of power, will help you get some nimble shots.

What I can’t recommend over the combination of “hard cue + soft tip” is the choice of “soft cue + soft tip”.

With this combination, it is easy to lose power and the shot will be blurred.

A golf bunker shot won’t jump 200 yards, no matter how hard you try, because you’re chewing sand.

In the same way, with a soft tip, it’s easy to lose power the moment you hit it.

On the other hand, a solid tip like the M or Q is harder but more resilient.

So it doesn’t diminish the power that comes in, and it doesn’t take too much of it.

Even in baseball, if you hit a hard ball and a soft ball with the same bat, the hard ball will jump more.

It’s the same thing.

I think it would be a waste to kill the power with a tip.

Using the firm part of the skin.

Making a soft tip can be difficult.

The number of users of S and Q varies from region to region, but in general, Q has more users than M. In fact, globally, M is naturally the most used.

However, that doesn’t mean that I can’t recommend the S.

I recommend the S to swing like a swing without holding the cue.

In such strokes, it is difficult to catch the ball well, and it is easy for the ball to leap out without sufficient adhesion to the tip.

So I think it’s a good idea to use a soft tip like the S to make it easier to catch the ball.

Incidentally, there was no such thing as a “type of hardness” as S or Q before we made our tips.

For that matter, no manufacturer had been able to produce a soft tip like the S over a long period of time.

Even in the old days, the first thing that was required of tips was “unbreakable” before things like a good feel when you shot them.

To do this, you have to use a firm part of the skin, not a fluffy part.

But making a soft tip while using a firm piece of skin can be a challenge.

It can be made without pressing, but even then it is only soft at first, and as you use it, it gets harder and harder and puffs up.

In other words, it can’t stay soft for a long time, so the quality is not stable and needs to be replaced frequently.

From this perspective, soft and stable tips are difficult to make only in a laminated structure.

Musashi Miyamoto at Ganryujima.

I would have fought Sasaki Kojiro with the sword I liked best.

Choosing a tool is “choosing a weapon”.

This type of cue will give me an advantage in the shot,” or “The previous cue had this kind of weight and tip, so I’ll try this kind of cue next time”.

And to put it loosely, for the same amount of practice, I think the person who chooses a tool with the idea that “a tool is a weapon” will win.

Miyamoto Musashi may have wanted to fight Sasaki Kojiro at Ganryu Island with his favorite sword if he really wanted to.

However, I think that he chose the oar because he felt that he needed a tool that Kojiro’s sword could not reach in order to win.

I think it’s amazing that he was able to fight without any pretense, and I think that’s also true in the selection of billiard equipment.

I think you’ll feel better with your favorite cue for the design and how it feels when you shoot it.

But as far as playing fulfillingly, that’s another story.

At the end of the day, everyone wants to improve their averages more than they feel comfortable playing, and they want to get better.

Of course, it’s important that you don’t rely too much on your tools, but you should also work on overcoming shots that you’re not good at, but I think it’s a good idea to find and choose tools that will be a weapon for you.

When a shaft is at the end of its life, it is

The majority of failures are due to wear on joints.

In this article, I will talk about the “shaft” of the cue.

What is a good shaft?

The answer to this question differs slightly from person to person, but I think most people are looking for something that has the same three elements: white, good wood grain, and solidity.

In particular, white has an image of “clean”, “clean” and “new”, so I think using white shafts makes you feel good just for that.

The material of the white shaft is the outside of the wood.

This part is still alive and well in the early days and can bend with changes in temperature and humidity.

That’s why when I make a shaft, I dry it thoroughly to prevent it from bending before using it.

On the other hand, the inner part of the wood, called the “core wood”, is slightly tinted and inferior to the outer part in terms of whiteness.

But it’s packed with fruit, so it won’t grow any further.

This may not look good, but a slightly tinted shaft is actually less likely to be bent or misaligned because of the core material used.

He added, “The shaft won’t stay white any time soon. It’s not just a matter of being able to keep up with the changes and stability, it’s also a matter of being able to keep up with the changes and stability of the shaft.

I think that’s a reasonable way of thinking, and even if it’s not so extreme, there are a lot of people who think that “cues are nothing but dirt”.

Personally, though, I don’t like my shafts to be dirty, so I clean them to keep them as white as I can tolerate, even if I can’t keep them in new condition.

Some people use sandpaper to clean the shaft.

However, sanding will chip away at the wood, change the condition of the shaft, and shorten its life.

The end of a shaft’s life is mostly due to wear and tear on the joints, except for bending due to poor storage.

The leading edge can be replaced even if it is broken, so as long as there is no wear or rattle in the joint, the shaft will last much longer than before.

And yet, I don’t think you’re going to reduce the life expectancy from yourself by using sandpaper.

The one I use to clean the shaft is an eraser.

I tried various types of erasers, such as the ones that round up the kerbs, but all of them are fine, except for sand erasers, which are very common.

I recommend it because it doesn’t chip the wood, and it removes chalk dust and dirt.

However, please be careful not to contaminate the billiard room with eraser scum.

The advanced players can hear the sound of the crowns

I can tell if you’ve hit the ball in a different way than usual.

The reason you want to keep your whiteness isn’t just “I want to use a clean shaft”.

If you are an advanced player, you have a huge amount of images of play in your mind, and your mind and body naturally react to the images (placement) of the moment, such as “this is how I’m going to get this placement”.

This is a similar ball to the previous one, so you should play it in a similar way.

In fact, I think it’s very difficult to win a professional-level match if you have to think about how to get the ball every time you play.

So, on the flip side, if the video looks the same all the time, the accuracy and averages will go up.

Of course, the arrangement is different every time, so it can’t always be the same image.

But it’s always the same with the ball of the hand and the shaft (cue tip) in sight when you’re poised.

At that time, I think there is a difference in the average if you can always see the same whiteness shaft, or if you can see different colored shafts such as blue or black on different days.

If you are an advanced player, you can tell if you have done something different by the sound you hear when you hit it.

That kind of sensory input is important, and it’s the same reason I always maintain my own whiteness.

Like a pillar in an old European temple.

It’s characterized by the presence of “entasis.

Each person’s preference is also expressed in the tip, but basically, I think it is good to trust and use the tiper as it is sold.

For pocket billiards, “Straight tip”.

This tip is a remnant of the “Coolmans tip” invented by Raymond Coolmans, the “god of billiards” in Carroll.

These are the result of a long period of debate and testing between cue makers and professional players, so there’s no doubt about it.

The Coolmans tip is a tip that was popular about 30 years ago.

It is characterized by the presence of “entasis” (*) like the pillars in the old European temples.

This means that when you hit the end of the ball, the shaft won’t bend too much and you’ll be able to hit the ball well.

Before the Coolmans tip was popular, the balkline and cardle games were the mainstay of the game, so the diameter of the leading edge of the tip at that time was about 11mm in order to hit a fine ball.

The reason for this is that if the leading edge is too thick, you won’t know where you’re hitting.

Also, many players played with two or three fingers on the cue and their wrists, so the tip was straight, like today’s pocket billiard shafts.

After that, the three cushions became the main game, but as before, if you have a thin tip or leading angle, you don’t have enough power or stiffness to hit the three cushions.

I think that’s why Courmans came up with the Courmans tip, which fleshes out the thin parts and gives them entasis.

In 50 years, we will have synthetic and recyclable materials in the queue.

I’m going to have to use it.

Now, like laminated tips, there are “high-tech shafts” that are made by laminating or incorporating artifacts into the shaft.

High-tech shafts are characterized by their high resilience.

It’s like when the pole vaulting pole was changed from bamboo to fiberglass or something like that, and the record has increased dramatically, and the power and rotation have increased, making it easier to cue.

In that sense, it is an evolved tool, and no wonder it has become a hit product.

However, the expansion rate is different for each material, as we also bond the raw material called leather.

So, even though it’s made with considerable precision, I don’t think it’s easy to perfectly laminate wood with resin or other artifacts.

This is the same for wood-to-tree upholstery.

As with leather, no two trees are exactly alike in this world, so I don’t think we can say for sure that there will be no gaps between the upholstery on a semi-permanent basis.

I think the idea of upholstery is great, and the performance is pretty high.

But in terms of stability, I think it’s difficult to increase the stability to the limit when the material is wood, because it’s raw.

Therefore, I personally think that it would be better to use compressed paper or artificial materials that are difficult to change or get caught in the hand, rather than wood, in order to maintain stability and uniformity.

Since ancient times, humans have lived their lives with the warmth of wood.

I’m reluctant to live in a house that doesn’t have wood or wood grain, and that’s the same when it comes to queues.

Even though it is said to be high-tech, we are still seeking and using wood.

But from now on, we have to protect the forest more than ever before.

So in 50 years, I think we will be forced to use synthetic or recyclable materials in our queues.

‘In the old days, the shafts were made of wood…’ he said nostalgically.

In that respect, today’s high-tech shafts are still in the process of being researched.

If this is a world where artificial materials are commonly used by the general public, then I think that high-tech shafts made of artificial materials will also be accepted.

A bulge in the middle of a cylinder that tipers as it goes up.

It is often found in the columns of huge buildings.

Horyu-ji Temple is famous for the Toin temple corridor and Parthenon temple.

On snowy roads, it’s better to wear snow shoes, leather shoes with spikes are less slippery.

In this article, we’ll talk about the chalk, which is an indispensable item when you hit the ball.

Before tips appeared, the cue was simply a wooden stick with a rounded tip.

But at the beginning of the 19th century, a pawnbroker in a port in England put white ink powder on the end of a cue, which he used to use to mark the destination of crates and other items.

Then, I was able to do a little hiccup.

Since then, the quality of play, etc., has improved dramatically, but the hinelli was born in England, and we now call the hinelli “English”.

In other words, the origin of chalk is white ink, which is formed by adding abrasives and pigments to a base material such as calcium carbonate to improve the consistency of the tip.

Incidentally, I’ve heard it said that “blue tips are blue because of the chalk component,” but that’s not true.

As I mentioned in the second part of this essay, blue leather is made by chrome tanning, which gives the leather a bluish-gray finish.

And by sprinkling pigment on it, the blue tips are blue in color.

So, why does applying chalk make it possible to hinge?

That’s because the abrasive has become a spike particle and is gripping the ball.

On snowy roads, spiked leather shoes are less slippery than regular leather shoes.

It’s the same thing.

That’s why the chalk creates spike marks on the surface of the ball every time you hit it.

The particles are so fine that the naked eye cannot see the scratches, but it can be said that it is the chalk that determines the life of the ball.

Of course, as far as the tips are concerned, they’re being scraped off each time the chalk is applied.

To find out “how much of a chalk difference the same tip makes.

I did a test with the same settings and the same cries for the same points.

It is the fineness of the spike particles that determines the performance of the chalk.

Each company is slightly different in the fineness of the count of the file, whether it is smooth or slippery when it is applied.

The old “National Tournament Chalk” was manufactured in Chicago and was commonly referred to as “National Chicago”, but it was said to be a “phantom masterpiece” and many people were willing to pay thousands of yen to have it.

At Pocket Billiards, many people say the best chalk is the old “Brunswick” chalk, including the popular “brown bra” which has a brown package.

There were various other chokes, and I think there are still more than 100 stocks.

Incidentally, while “master” chalk, which is commonly used today, tends to be a bit flaky, old chalk tends to be moist and has fine particles.

When we were developing the tip, we wanted to see how much of a difference the same tip would make to the chalk, so we tested four of the most popular brands – National Tournament Chalk, Brunswick, Master and Triangle – with the same settings and the same cue.

I have used dozens of other types of chalk, but based on my experience, I don’t think there is much difference between these four brands in terms of total balance: “not too much damage to the ball”, “not too dirty”, and “good bite”, and I think using any one of them is sufficient.

Of course, when it comes to how well it bites the ball, I think the “masterpiece” is better than the four brands.

However, on the other hand, there are some disadvantages such as “the ball gets dirty easily” and “it’s a little too sticky”, and even if it’s a masterpiece, we haven’t seen anything that can be called “perfect”.

If that’s the case, I think it’s enough to use any of the four stocks without daring to choose the ones that are hard to get or expensive.

When you hit it, the fibers of the tip are cut with a thud.

The surface would be uprooted.

Most billiard fields have chalk available.

I think a lot of people have used it and have been able to play without any problems, but I still think it’s better to have a michoke.

There is a difference in the way people apply chalk.

The shape of the chalk surface also gives it a personality, such as a bowl shape or a “+” pattern, but if the chalk is made in a different way from your own, it is surprisingly difficult to paint beautifully.

Also, let’s say you have someone who has been using a master for years, for example.

The master is probably the most popular chalk, but that said, it’s not always in every shop.

Therefore, if you don’t have my chalk, you may be forced to use a different brand of chalk than the master.

The ratio of ingredients in chalk varies slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

In other words, if you use different chalk than usual, you are mixing different particles together on the surface of the tip, which takes away the character of the chalk and is not good for the tip.

The point is, “Don’t mix the chalk”.

I think it’s better to have my chalk in that regard as well, and if you want to use a different chalk, I think it’s better to wipe off the chalk on the tip before using it.

Also, there are some things to be aware of when using chalk.

The surface of the ball is coated with wax, and when you hit the ball, it sticks to the tip.

When the chalk is applied in that condition, the wax on the tip will move to the chalk as well, resulting in wax on both the tip and the chalk.

In this condition, no matter how much chalk you apply, you will only be catching the wax between the chalk and the tip, so the tip will be slippery when you hit it, and there is a high probability that you will miss.

If the chalk is waxed, the surface of the chalk will look oily.

When this happens, wipe it off with a tissue and reset it.

One more thing.

It’s also not a good idea to file the tip to make the surface fuzzy just because the chalk is not very smooth.

On a micro level, if there are chalk spike particles between the filed bristles, the tip fibers will be cut off and the surface will be uprooted when you hit the ball, causing a mistake.

This is a particularly common mistake when using the crescendo at the end of the ring.

Think of the people you play with and the stores you shop with.

Choose your chalk and use it with good manners

Chalk is a must-have in the game of billiards, but it also makes a mess of the ball and the table.

So, in terms of the quality of the glue, some of the chokes are better than the four typical chokes mentioned above, but you have to be careful when using such chokes.

If the spike particles are too sharp, they may not be able to be wiped off if the chalk powder is scattered on the rasha, and especially in pocket billiards, where the players take turns hitting the same ball, you don’t want your opponent to use too much chalk to stain the ball.

If the chalk is all over the place where you want to hit it, you can’t hit it there anymore.

In the future, an alternative to chalk may be invented.

It’s a sticky spray that dries quickly when sprayed on.

But I think that the chalking gesture is so well established in the culture that even people who don’t know billiards well can understand it as an “image of billiards”.

So, it’s probably a long way off before we have a replacement for chalk.

As long as you continue to use chalk, it is important that you choose chalk with consideration for the people you are playing with and the shops, and that you use it with good manners.

The tables and other utensils are shared by everyone, and billiards has always been a noble game, far from being the word “hustler”.

This time, I would like to talk about the ball, which is an essential tool for playing billiards.

Today’s carom balls come in three colors: white, yellow, and red (the target ball), but until about 30 years ago, the hand balls were both white.

There was a black dot about three millimeters long on one side, which we called a “black ball” and the other side a “white ball” to distinguish them.

However, when it came to tournaments, it was sometimes difficult to tell from the audience’s point of view which was the white ball and which was the black ball during the game.

When the ball was first changed to yellow, there was talk among players that chalk was more likely to remain on the surface of the ball and that the course was more likely to be clogged.

I’m not sure if it’s true or not.

The ball is actually a two-layered structure with a thin coating on the outside of the hard plastic, which is the base material, but when making a yellow ball, pigment is mixed into the hard plastic.

In other words, the material was different from the white ball, albeit subtly, and that may have been the cause.

In those days, the player who won the banking game not only chose to play first or second, but also the color of the ball, and for a while, the player who won the banking game almost always chose the white ball and let his opponent play the yellow ball.

As one might expect, when Aramis, a ball manufacturer, carried out research in response to such a story, they found that yellowing the ball made the surface weaker, or some other drawback, so they improved it.

After a while, both the white and yellow balls were almost unchanged.

What’s more, the coating part of the surface was sometimes cracked while using it, but you can’t see that anymore.

Even though the accuracy of the white and black ball era was made with the best technology of the time, it was still childish compared to today.

I think that Aramis’s technology, which went from there to the robust and highly accurate products that we have today, is amazing, and I think that their attitude of always trying to research and continue to make good products, like the improvement of the yellow ball, is worthy of respect.

The world’s largest true sphere with a number of 9s in a row

Proven by scientific tests.

The “dot ball,” which has a red dot on its surface, is now familiar.

It was invented by the carom billiard community to make it easier to see the spin of the hand ball when looking at the three cushions.

To make a dot ball, combine the red sticks that serve as the dots to form a skeleton so that the six dots are evenly spread out on the surface of the ball, and then dip it in liquid plastic to solidify it.

And then we grind that mass into a round shape.

In other words, dot balls are made by combining more or less different ingredients.

Therefore, even though the holes were dug and the dots filled in and not glued on afterwards, it’s difficult to make them uniformly if you think about it normally.

But as I saw on TV before, the smallest sphere with a certain degree of sphericity (the accuracy of the roundness of the sphere) is a bearing sphere used in precision machinery.

On the contrary, the largest sphere is the billiard ball, and it’s true sphericity is almost 100%.

Aramis has the technology to do just that, and it’s because of that precision that we’re able to play so accurately without any inconvenience.

Although other companies’ balls are also used in Pocket Billiards, the majority of the balls in Carom Billiards are Aramis balls, and I think it’s no wonder.

It feels heavy.

Not a simple weight difference, but a sensory one.

But personally, when Dotball first came out, I thought it was “disgusting” (laughs).

For example, if you hit an empty cushion with a five and a half, your body will remember the points.

But with the dot, it’s like, “Hit it here! I felt like I was being instructed to do so.

The dots got in the way a bit when measuring the crests.

There was also talk of “dotball being heavier” with regular handball and dotball.

It is true that paints have different masses depending on the color, and even the same red has different masses than the one with organic and inorganic pigments.

Considering that, I don’t think it’s funny if the dot ball is heavier than a normal handball.

However, I’m sure that Aramis would have kept the difference very small, and only products that have passed various tests, such as rebound counting, are released.

Therefore, I think that the feeling of heaviness is not a simple weight difference, but a sensory one.

When the balls hit each other, they can be played at a line close to 90 degrees.

However, if you feel that the way you play the ball is different from the way you used to play it, it is not surprising that you feel that the ball of your hand is heavy.

To put it more simply, the more you use the ball, the more it rubs against the rasha and wears out from wiping.

If you compare the hand ball in that condition with the newly bought dot ball, it is of course the new dot ball that is heavier.

In other words, it was just a return to its original weight, which may have made it feel heavy.

Incidentally, ball cleaning used to use an abrasive to remove rust from copper and brass in the old days.

But with that, the ball got whittled away and got smaller and smaller, so they started using wax for cars and furniture.

In addition to these, Aramis ball waxes are now widely used.

I simply find it interesting to work with spheres.

That’s why so many people are playing with such enthusiasm.

There are many kinds of ball games in the world and they are familiar to many people.

Maybe it’s because each one is interesting, but at its core, the one thing they all have in common is “handling the ball”.

The ball has a magical power to amuse people at its root.

Babies and toddlers enjoy just rolling the ball, even if they don’t know what it means or are not very good at it.

Or you could treasure a round stone you found on a riverbank, or a crystal ball that seems mystical.

In other words, it’s not so much about what’s interesting about the ball game as it is about what makes it interesting, and I think that’s why so many people play it so enthusiastically.

I think it’s the same with billiards.

It’s not that three-cushion or nine-ball is interesting, but the joy of being able to handle the truest ball on the planet, and the delicate control of it is actually what everyone finds interesting.

Just playing the ball against the cushion should be fun enough and it should be exciting when you start out.

I’m sure there are many people who are just happy to feel the feel and sound of the toll.

So, when teaching billiards to beginners, both junior and senior players, I think it is easier to get people interested in billiards if you start by telling them how to enjoy it before teaching them how to score points.

As your career progresses and you focus only on technique and winning, you will forget the underlying joy of being with the ball.

If you are often worried about not being able to score or improve, why don’t you go back to that starting point now?

Most of the tables (in Japan) are made in Japan.

The parts used are almost purely domestic.

In this article, we will talk about the table, which is an indispensable tool for playing billiards along with the ball in the previous article.

Nowadays it is common to play at a foreign-made table, but until about 40 years ago, when you think of a table, both carom and pocket billiards were almost all made in Japan, and the parts used were almost entirely made in Japan.

For example, the stone (slate) under the rasha.

Domestic slate is of higher quality, thicker and sturdier than the Italian slate that was later imported.

Rasha was also a domestic product of Nikke or Suibun.

These two companies still make Rasha, but back then the material was wool and it was mossy compared to today, the conditions were heavy and the ball didn’t run.

It was Nissho-tei and Awaji-tei that were responsible for the “shipbuilding” of these domestically produced parts. The name of the ship was “Galleon” in pocket billiards.

It stood up well compared to the American-made Brunswick, and I thought it was solid in terms of structure.

On the other hand, the carom billiard tables had no fixed name, only the emblems of table manufacturers such as Japan Tamadai and Awaji-tei.

Also, the tables back then didn’t have heaters like they do now.

I’ve seen people who know of foreign-made tables say, “I’d like to have a heater like that,” and I’ve seen an optional heater under the table.

After that, the appreciation of the yen and the billiard boom helped to bring in foreign-made tables, but before that came the “Granito”, a Spanish-made rasha for carom and billiards.

It was so thin and rolled so well, so different from the previous conditions, that everyone was surprised and bewildered for a bit, but they soon began to sneak in to use it.

As a result, it was thought that granito would become mainstream worldwide.

I was puzzled by the European-made table.

As I got used to it, I was able to do a lot of things.

However, when a tournament like the current World Cup Series was to be held, there was a company that quickly came forward to offer rasha.

That’s Ivan Simonis from France.

From then on, Simonis rasha became mainstream all over the world in one fell swoop.

Around that time, foreign-made tables began to be imported, and the Pocket Billiards “Brunswick” was made in the United States.

At Carom Billiards, European-made tables such as the “Chevirot”, “Banlare”, “Full Haven” and “Sorensogard” can be found in many of the country’s billiard halls.

At first, I was puzzled by the European table, but as I got used to using it, I was able to do a lot of things and actually felt that it was easy to hit.

In addition, since the center of carom billiards in the world was Europe, naturally European tables were used for the international tournaments.

As a result, the use of European-made tables gradually became the mainstream in Japan, and people began to play on them as “this is the only way”.

If you’re going to hit the ball in the morning

I left the bowl on the table the day before.

The hallmark of European tables then, and of course, still does today, was that they were solid.

This is a very important thing at the carom billiard table.

In carom billiards, the balls are big and heavy, and they move around in a double turn or something like that, and hard shots are required.

So to speak, compared to pocket billiards, carom billiards has more force on the table.

Therefore, if the table itself is weak, the table will shake, and if the table shakes, the ball will not slide, and you will lose power and run out of spins in the middle.

So you can’t pull a long distance or leave the spin as long as possible.

In other words, if the table is weak, it will hinder your play.

That’s why most carom tables have a steel frame in them and a thick slate, with a gross weight of about 1.2 tons.

Also, from the very beginning when European tables were imported, the tables already had heaters on them, but their role was to dry them out.

For example, if a ball with a reverse hinge goes in at a sharp angle to the cushion, the ball will curve back to the cushion it came out of after exiting the cushion.

But when the cushions are damp, they don’t get that curve.

We have heaters to prevent that from happening, but it’s unique to Japan that we use heaters mainly for drying.

The climate in Europe is often dry to begin with, so there’s not much need to dry out the table.

However, in Europe, the heaters are turned on until they are quite hot, whereas in Japan they are turned on with a whirr.

So, the original reason why I put the heater on was to warm up the ball.

The ball will be soft when warm and hard when cold.

It also changes the rebound of the ball, but in Europe it’s a lot colder, so the ball gets colder easily.

That’s why I turned on the heater to make it rebound the same way it always does.

I used to put the ball on the table the day before when I would hit it in the morning.

The heater doesn’t stay on all day, so you can leave it on the table and hit the ball as soon as it comes in, without waiting for it to warm up.

I even put a lid over the top of the bowl to keep it fully warm both above and below the bowl.

The three cushions are.

A game close to surveying that requires precision

Even in recent years, table makers have been developing and releasing new models.

When you look at the structure, you can see that it has been designed with meticulous calculations based on structural mechanics and architecture, such as how to distribute the forces.

In fact, with the improved accuracy of the table, we have been able to score more and more points on the three-cushion.

In the past, it used to be said, “That’s not a pitch you can aim for,” but now I can take it easily, and I don’t have as many “close calls” for lack of running.

Three Cushion is a game that is closer to surveying, which requires precision.

Therefore, the accuracy of the table has a direct impact on the play, and both the competitor and the viewer enjoy it.

On the other hand, I don’t think Pocket Billiards is as good as Three Cushions in terms of whether the improved table makes it possible to play more widely or to do more advanced things.

When it comes to nine balls, of course there is nothing better than a high accuracy of the table, but it is not often played by taking advantage of that, rather, I think the appeal is the unexpected play that can be seen in conditions that are becoming more difficult by the minute.

Of course, it’s also exciting to see a polished play like the “Maswari series”.

The cue is now a two-piece design.

The degree of freedom in production has increased dramatically.

In this article, I’ll talk about the “parts” that make up a queue.

Originally, the cue was a single stick (one piece) that did not distinguish between the shaft and the bat, and from the late 1820s it became a two-piece design that connected the shaft and the bat with a joint, as it is now.

Naturally, the material (wood) from the end of the cue to the end of the cue is all the same.

So, for example, if you make a one-piece cue out of maple, you can’t make the back of the cue heavier because the maple itself is lighter than the other trees.

On the other hand, a two-piece can be made of many different types of wood, and the cue can be balanced in front or back.

In other words, since the cue is now a two-piece design, the degree of freedom of production has increased drastically.

Also, a bat without a hinge tends to be harder like a one-piece cue, but if the bat is made from a piece of wood like a hinge, the materials will buffer each other like a spring, making it softer and more flexible in design.

For this reason, it became mainstream to make a bat out of hagi, but there are limits to how much wood you can build.

There’s nothing you can’t do, for example, with 32 Sword Hagi.

However, the more joints you have, the weaker the bat will be, so if you put it together in such a complicated way, the bat will break when you hit it, and the performance of the tool will be compromised.

From that point of view, I think that up to about 8 sword hagi is appropriate.

Subsequently, the bat was made with a three-piece construction, consisting of a forearm, grip, and sleeve ring.

By changing the position and weight of the bolts connecting each cue, the balance of the cue itself can be changed in detail, making it easier to tune up and more flexible.

By the way, a lot of carom billiard cues have no wrapped grips or bamboo shoots with no thread winding.

That’s because Carom Billiards cues need to be sturdier, and that’s why the bat is not made of three pieces, but of wood with a core structure similar to a one-piece.

The role of the joint is.

It’s not just about connecting the bat to the shaft.

As you can see, the cue continues to evolve, and it is the joint that has played a part in it.

It doesn’t stand out among the parts of the cue, but it’s very important, and I think if the joints aren’t good, it’s hard to use them as a player, no matter how much you admire the cue design-wise.

And because queue manufacturers are aware of this, new types of joints are being developed all over the world.

A long time ago, a new type of cue was released with the thought, “If I’m going to go to so much trouble making a joint, I shouldn’t have to make a joint.

It was only when I used the “three quarter cue” that I realized that the role of the joint was more than just connecting the bat and the shaft.

The cue is slightly deflected at the joint, which makes it more finely tuned when shooting.

But that three-quarter cue has no joints, so it doesn’t deflect, so it didn’t have much of a fine-tuning effect.

It felt like the crunch of rolling a bamboo stick on the concrete.

The first cue joint I used was a brass one.

It was about 40 years ago now, but it was a substitute for a screw sold at a home improvement store, and because the accuracy was low and there was a gap in the screw, it made a clattering sound until it was fixed.

It had rusted over time and wasn’t as neat to look at as it should have been.

After using it for about two years, I used a wood jointed cue that had both male and female screws made of wood.

It had a male thread on the shaft and was very accurate, so many carom billiard players used it.

Pocket billiard cues with wood joints were also made, but in the old days, we used to break shots with play cues, so wood joints can break if you don’t play well.

So in pocket billiards, metal joints, such as brass and later stainless steel, were accepted.

However, if the joint collar is made of stainless steel, the balance of the entire cue will inevitably come to the front.

If the front of the cue is heavy, the cue tends to squat when you play, which makes it harder to push. This is why the plastic cue is not popular, especially in carom billiards.

Advances in organic synthetic chemistry have led to the creation of plastics that are as strong as metals, creating a well-balanced and solid cue.

Also, joint collars used to be made of compressed paper in the old days.

It’s like the “seat” you lay under the tip.

It was used for quite a long time, although it had some durability problems because of the high humidity that caused it to become matted.

Some people call the forward angle “knack.

The origin of the word “bony

By the way, when tips were first made nearly 200 years ago now, the tip was attached directly to the end of the cue.

But if you do that, the wood will become a whisper or split in half as you play.

So, I started to attach bones to the cue tip for protection.

That was the beginning of Sakizuno, and some people still call Sakizuno “kotsu”, which comes from the fact that it has bones.

The first was ivory, the others were whale and killer whale teeth and deer antlers.

Even when I learned to play billiards, the mainstay was the killer whale.

But the bones were susceptible to drying and could break.

Also, although ivory was superior in sound and feel, it was expensive, and with the global ban on elephant capture, plastic was used as the material for the tip of the horn, as it is now.

The leading edge of the ball will affect the feel of the ball when you hit it.

Some of them rebound slower than the tip rebound time I set and kill the performance of the tip.

However, the fact that they can be replaced relatively cheaply and easily is another feature of the first horn.

So, if the leading edge is not to your liking, it would be a good idea to have a repairer replace it.

Incidentally, in carom billiards, the exchange of first horns is quite common.

The length of the tip of the pocket billiards is about 2.5 centimeters, whereas the carom billiards are generally less than 1 centimeter.

Because of its small size and the fact that the most power is applied to the leading edge of the carom billiards, it is easy to get painful and often breaks before the shaft has reached the end of its life.

While it is difficult to accurately convey the difference in touch with words and letters, the

Once you hit the ball, you’ll understand.

The leading edge and the joint are the parts that affect the feel of the shot, but everyone has their own preferences.

Every time you hit it, you can feel it “tapping”.

And while it’s hard to tell the exact difference in feeling by words and letters, it’s easy to understand once you hit the ball.

Let’s say you have a cue that feels good to hit.

When you tell your friends how it feels and how good it is, instead of words, give them the cue and ask them to hit it, “Hey, that’s good, right? The story ends with a “Yeah, I like it.

I think that if we share our knowledge and experiences, we can communicate our senses without talking.

There’s also the joy of using a tool with a design you like, or simply the pleasure of using it.

But that’s not all.

I think that sharing the feeling of vibration and shock, which is very important in terms of performance, with others is also a way to enjoy tools.